Bastille Day
July 1997
The feeling in the air today is decidely French. It started with the French-Australian Chamber of Commerce Bastille day breakfast at the Hotel Sofitel and continues with the official opening of Republique Brasserie this evening.
For more than 60 years The Society Restaurant has been a bastion of Italian tradition at 23 Bourke Street. No more, the restaurant opened there by Guiseppe Codognotto in 1932 (after originally starting in Little Bourke Street as the Italian Society in 1925) is now very French in flavour and style. It has been transformed by Denis Sammut, formerly of The Brasserie in Toorak Road, in partnership with Peter Vodicka, managing director of Thomas' Music situated next door at no 31 Bourke St.
The bar has been re-built and the front area tiled with banquettes down one side. The private dining area at the back is now opened up but its rich red carpet gives a quieter softer feel. A new staircase leads to the grey carpeted Society Room for private parties and a gallery area on the third floor. Twenty six year old chef, Rok Trcek, is in charge of seven chefs working from breakfast through till late six days a week with a function already booked for 80 next Sunday. His menu ranges from the traditional -- onion soup $8.50 and Pot-au feu Republique $24 to pasta with wild mushrooms, artichokes and crepinette of chicken and sweetbreads $13.50.Classic minute steak and Fish & chips with salad are amongst the bar snacks.
Rok's former mentor at Paul Bocuse Restaurant and arguably the finest French chef in Melbourne, Phillipe Mouchel, continues the French invasion of the eastern end of the city. In the basement of Sargood House, 61 Flinders Lane, Langton's Restaurant and Wine Bar with Philippe Mouchel is due to open in a fortnight.
Paul Bocuse was a great classic French restaurant and food lovers mourned its closure last November. To accompany the wines chosen by Stuart Langton, the highly respected wine auctioneer, and his restaurant manager David McIntosh, Philippe says that his menu will not be "heavy, classic, French bistro food. It is modern food, but simply cooked and simply presented".
"When I was at Bocuse, I could see the trend changing. So I was pleased when the opportunity came to join Stuart and to do something new for Melbourne, "he explained. The menu is still not completely finalised but includes dishes cooked on a teppanyaki grill and rotisserie, tajines, daubes, pot au feu, and brasserie classics such as oysters, terrines, smoked salmon and Philippe's version of onion soup which is finished "with a touch of Yarra-Valley apple cider."
The bar menu has dishes ranging from $7.50-16 and in the restaurant section, main courses will be up to $25. He is also offering a two course $25 Menu of the day which is the rotisserie, dessert or cheese and including wine, beer or mineral water, coffee or tea.
Philippe is anxious to explain, "we are not re-inventing Paul Bocuse. It's not a fine dining room. We are going a bit down, but using good quality products, though different cuts. We are not going to use a veal rack, but instead veal shank. It will still be the same quality and cooked with passion and professionalism."
But no matter what Philippe says, expectations will be high and bookings will be sought after as soon as the doors open on July 28. Amongst the first to check out Langton's will be members of the RCAV (Restaurant and Catering Association) on August 3. Spaces are filling fast, for members only, the RCAV 9654 5866.
But Langton's is not just a restaurant, there is the wine bar and a private dining area. It will be open for breakfast from 7am and in the afternoons for afternoon tea. Breakfast eggs include a coddled variety with leg ham or smoked salmon. Breads will come from Laurent's Bakery but the patisserie will be done in Philippe's kitchen and include some deliciously old fashioned desserts.
It was Laurent Patisserie who today won the honours in the competition which the French-Australian Chamber of Commerce organises annually in association with celebrated French chef and author, Gabriel Gate.Sixteen of Melbourne's finest patissiers submitted croissants, chocolate eclairs and an extraordinary range of elaborately decorated "Bastille Day Celebration" cakes. It took me and fellow judges several hours to taste our way through the unidentified entries. Only at the end did we know which chefs had entered. The best patissier overall was judged to be Steve Hendriks of Laurent who also won the "Bastille Day Celebration" cake award. Another Laurent entry from Samantha Mc Cutcheon and Dale Malene won best croissant award and the best chocolate eclairs came from Yves Morvan of French Fantasies.
Mietta O'Donnell
This first appeared in the Herald Sun in July, 1998.
©Mietta's 1998.