Hong Kong to Melbourne
July 1997
Andy Ng
Photograph © Tony Knox 1988.
Andy Ng was always very polished in the front of house and now owns the successful Plumes, Doncaster (with partners Wing Kee Cheung and Cliff Jim ) and its more recent sister restaurant at Highpoint Maribyrnong (with partners Yuk Tong Chung and Kwok Hung To) plus a take away in the shopping centre. Different wines sell at Plume's Highpoint but the same dishes can be had at lower prices and excellent quality dim sum are prepared there by Yuk Tong Chung, Andy's original partner in his first restaurant and now chef at Highpoint.
After leaving Mietta's in 1989 he started a simple restaurant in Templestowe with brother Steve, who is currently back in Hong Kong. Then came Zen's a landmark business which was sold recently and Andy is now planning a fish and chip shop at Taylors Lakes.
There's no question that it's cheap to do business in Melbourne, says Andy but that means nothing. He is concerned about the size of the market here in contrast with Hong Kong where it is so strong and, with the increase in population and trade with China, will continue to boom.
William Lee was with us for six years as wine waiter and has put together a big, excellent value and quality wine list at his China Max restaurant and take-away in Keilor Street, Essendon. He started the business with Paul Chan and chef Wan Keung, whose roast meat specialities are a must. The restaurant has a cared for, cosy atmosphere and a strong following amongst winemakers from Sunbury and the Yarra Valley. It feels more Australian than Andy's Hong Kong style grand restaurants.
Jade Hong Cafe in Carrington Street, Box Hill, is another business again. Lawrence Tse (ex Flower Drum and Purple Sands and partners Kai Choy Leung and Raymond Tse, both former chefs at Mietta's, and with Ken Kwan) claims to have been Melbourne's first Eurasian style Hong Kong cafe. He explains, It's not mixing East and West, it's putting a grill (steak or chicken or eel) with noodles or rice - but keeping them apart. Dishes are served on individual plates and for most dishes you are given a fork, spoon and a steak knife. It's quick, simple and these sort of places are taking over in Hong Kong from traditional restaurants. Here in Box Hill it's busy, fast and filled with Hong Kong Chinese students and families.
Dannis Tang was at Mietta's for three years and is continuing the interest in wine he developed there His Blue Chip company has been exporting Australian wine to China for the past year. Since June 1996, he has sent more than 25 containers there and is planning to start doing his own bottling, labelling and distributing. He sees possibilities in Taiwan and Vietnam also. Dannis says that he came here in 1989 because of fears of 1997 and because he wanted to do something different. He knows that business is better in Hong Kong but likes being an Aussie and having the chance to do something new.
They all agree on the quality of life in Melbourne. There is no question for Andy about the value of Melbourne's good air and the schooling which he can get for his sons. He plans to send them to Melbourne Grammar and has bought an apartment in St Kilda Road so they can be close to school.
The real question for Andy, Choy, Dannis, Raymond and William is -- could they afford to live now in Hong Kong? Andy sold his apartment in Hong Kong in 1987 for 700,000 Hong Kong dollars. Asking price in 1997 is 4.2 million dollars for the same apartment (and it's now ten years older)!!
Choy says that his friends in Hong Kong are spending 70% of their income on housing. So they can't afford to go out for dinner.
Mietta O'Donnell
Published on the 1/7/1997 in the Herald Sun Food & Drink Supplement
©Mietta's 1997